Published at Tuesday, 28 August 2018. Ottoman Chair. By Inez Sheppard.
In that slot. I realize I should have used the speed square for this, but the torpedo level ended up working. Just fine to use the level for this, you need to make sure your project is sitting squarely upon a level surface. The seat will be made of half-inch plywood, with cutouts for the backrest it'll, be supported by the front legs and by 1 by 2. First strips I recess the strips half an inch from the edge to account for the seat and tacked them in with the brad nailed to verify their mounting location when everything checks out, they can be fastened with screws.
This chair design allows for a storage compartment under the seat. The bottom can be made from a lightweight panel and cut to fit the opening perfectly. I chose to attach it with metal L brackets, rather than first strips to maximize the storage space rather than drilling a thumb-sized hole to use to lift the seat to access the storage, I decided to use a screw and a simple loop of twine as a quick pull if I change my mind in the future, I can always add a hole later. I hear it is significantly harder to remove a hole. The spacing in between the slats leaves the storage open for all sorts of creepy crawlers.
The off cuts were getting trapped between the blade and the fence, so I removed the fence and glued a stopper on the end of my miter fence to get a consistent cut with a shop made tapering jig, I cut a 13 degree angle from the center of The rear leg to the end of the board to ankle the backrest. This same angle is cut on the front legs to add a little style and consistency of form. I started the assembly by taking three long slats and two legs. I used a few quarter inch spacers between the slats to create a consistent, spacing the front and rear legs should be perpendicular to the slats, with their edges. Flush with the miter on the slats.
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