Published at Wednesday, September 19th 2018. by Inez Sheppard in Ottoman Chair.
Today I'm going to go over how to make a sectional patio chair for this project. I use dimension pine boards, which were 1 by 4 and 1 by 5. To start out, I cut all pieces to length from the pine boards on the radial arm saw to make repeated cuts. I use a stop block. I then ripped the 1 by fours to 3 inches wide on the table saw the off cuts will be useful later.
So I set them aside for now. In total I have 2 rear legs, 2 front legs, 6 long, slats and nine short slats. The slots around the chair base will be mitered at 45 degrees on their ends. With my miter gauge and a fence mounted stop block. I made a cut that had a fair amount of tear out to reduce, tear out and mounted a miter gauge fence to support the work piece as it is cut.
The off cuts were getting trapped between the blade and the fence, so I removed the fence and glued a stopper on the end of my miter fence to get a consistent cut with a shop made tapering jig, I cut a 13 degree angle from the center of The rear leg to the end of the board to ankle the backrest. This same angle is cut on the front legs to add a little style and consistency of form. I started the assembly by taking three long slats and two legs. I used a few quarter inch spacers between the slats to create a consistent, spacing the front and rear legs should be perpendicular to the slats, with their edges. Flush with the miter on the slats.
A speed square is a handy tool to hold these pieces perpendicular to each other drive a single screw through a leg into the first slot, then recheck for square before driving a second screw and subsequently attach each slat to each leg, because these screws will be in The interior that will not require plugging the shorter front and back slats will be screwed. In from the exterior, I made a guide from an off cut to ensure a consistent spacing for the screws. I also countersunk each hole to recess the screws so that they can be plugged. The short slats will be attached by flushing its mite, together with the long slat and driving one screw in a leg. Slat will do the second screw later.At this point, it would have been nice to have a third hand, as I connect the two sides, together with one screw in each slat. With the chair, standing, plumb and level. The rest of the screws can be driven in. The last three slats are for the backrest. I Drive one screw into the top slot and verify it is horizontal before adding the rest of the screws.
In that slot. I realize I should have used the speed square for this, but the torpedo level ended up working. Just fine to use the level for this, you need to make sure your project is sitting squarely upon a level surface. The seat will be made of half-inch plywood, with cutouts for the backrest it'll, be supported by the front legs and by 1 by 2. First strips I recess the strips half an inch from the edge to account for the seat and tacked them in with the brad nailed to verify their mounting location when everything checks out, they can be fastened with screws.
This chair design allows for a storage compartment under the seat. The bottom can be made from a lightweight panel and cut to fit the opening perfectly. I chose to attach it with metal L brackets, rather than first strips to maximize the storage space rather than drilling a thumb-sized hole to use to lift the seat to access the storage, I decided to use a screw and a simple loop of twine as a quick pull if I change my mind in the future, I can always add a hole later. I hear it is significantly harder to remove a hole. The spacing in between the slats leaves the storage open for all sorts of creepy crawlers.
They can be covered up easily with quarter inch plywood or the off cuts from ripping earlier. After cutting my off cuts to size, I secured them with brad nails. The last step before finishing is to plug the screws. I do this quickly with glue and a dowel.
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