Published at Sunday, September 16th 2018. by Irene Pittman in Ottoman Table.
Modern ottoman coffee table with some cool art on top - let's do it. The material is for this project is a little long go. I provided a full list of materials for this project down in the description for you to check out. Firstly, I marked the middle of the plywood board. This will be my reference when I'm gluing my pieces of wood down. Now you can do any pattern. Your life, I decided to go with an arrow design. On top, i oversized all the cuts, as I would come back later, with a circular saw to cut everything to its final length. All the cups for the tabletop have a 45 degree cut on one end of each piece of timber.
I cut the arrow sections first and clamp this into place and took my time to ensure the board's are exactly in the right foot as every piece of wood would reference off the first one. I then found everything that was heavy in my shop, which was mostly paint tin and put them on top of the table with the tabletop drying. I could turn my attention to the table legs. I first cut the square section of legs. I made two squares with the outer side of the square measuring 400 mil and the top and bottom of the square measuring 350 ml. I use pocket holes to join these together, but you could always just glue and screw these.
The main thing to remember is to take your time to ensure everything is level and lining up. Clamping and standing together ensures everything stays the same size and at the same level, this will ensure the table remains level. I then made the triangle section of the leg. This was made up of two pieces cut to 385, mil a rough cut. These two lengths and snuck up on the cut for the right fit each end of the triangle. Sections has a 30-degree cut. Once these were cut to the right length, I glued them into place. Then it was time for the stretcher.
I drew a line at the center of the square part of the leg and the center of the stretcher. Then I glued and screwed them into place just lining the lines off once the legs are dried. I had a couple of small gaps in between the wood pieces, which needs to be filled a little trick, for you run a bead of glue down the joint and get some sawdust from around your miter saw and rub the sawdust in with the glue it'll fill The joint and blend in no one will ever notice. I then trimmed the tabletop to its final length. I did this with a circular saw and using a door board or a circular saw cutting jig to make the cut the door board. Jig is a great Jeep for the workshop and makes cutting straight lines. I sanded everything flat and up to 220 grit.
I then started to cut my frame for the tabletop. I used miter joints here. It is best to rough cut, to length and then sneak up on the cut. As it is hard to measure and get it right, the first time I started with one side and when that was correct, i clamped it into place and made my way around the board. Once all the sides were cut, I glued and nailed into place. I then came back and put it up all the nail holes this wood putty. I then sanded and painted the table legs. I undercoated and applied two coats of paint. I used juleps white on white low Sheen for this.
It was then time for me to tape off and paint the areas I took my time to ensure the tape was perfect This will help the colors not bleeding. When painting I always paint the lighter color first and then move to the darker one. The white error is jewel, off-white and white, and the black is jewel luck, spirit of flat black paint. Once the white error is dry, I can remove the tape and retype for the black arrow with the area's painted. It was time to remove the tape and see the big reveal and then taped up the frame and painted that coats and save you washing your brushes and rollers a million times it's a tabletop drying. I could drill the holes in the table legs which would be used to join the top to the bottom.
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